The Complete Guide to Diamond Shapes: Brilliance, Pros, and What to Watch For
Choosing a diamond isn’t just about size or price—it’s about shape. Each cut has its own way of playing with light, creating sparkle, and expressing personality. Some shapes maximize brilliance, while others highlight clarity or create an illusion of size.
Here’s a breakdown of the most popular diamond shapes, what makes each one unique, and what to look for when choosing yours.
Round Brilliant
The round brilliant is the classic diamond cut—and for good reason. With 58 precisely placed facets, it offers the most brilliance and fire of any shape.
Pros:
• Maximum sparkle and timeless appeal
• Symmetry hides inclusions well
• Works with every setting style
Cons:
• Most expensive per carat due to cutting waste and high demand
Best for: Anyone seeking the ultimate in sparkle and a ring that never goes out of style.
Princess Cut
Introduced in the 1970s, the princess cut is a modern square shape with pointed corners and a brilliant faceting style.
Pros:
• Strong sparkle with a contemporary look
• Lower price per carat than round brilliant
• Clean, sharp geometry
Cons:
• Corners are vulnerable to chipping—settings must protect them
Best for: Modern minimalists who want sparkle in a geometric silhouette.
Cushion Cut
A soft square or rectangular shape with rounded corners, the cushion cut has vintage charm.
Pros:
• Romantic “pillowy” look
• Larger flashes of light for a softer sparkle
• Popular for antique-inspired settings
Cons:
• Less brilliance than round cuts
• Quality varies greatly—cut matters more here than in many shapes
Best for: Vintage lovers who appreciate character and warmth over intense sparkle.
Oval Cut
Ovals are elegant and elongating, offering brilliance close to that of a round.
Pros:
• Creates the illusion of larger size per carat
• Finger-lengthening shape
• Brilliant faceting
Cons:
• Can show a dark “bow-tie effect” in the center if cut poorly
Best for: Someone who wants a classic feel with a touch of individuality.
Emerald Cut
Emerald cuts are sophisticated rectangles with step-cut facets, known for their “hall of mirrors” look rather than fiery brilliance.
Pros:
• Sleek, timeless, and elegant
• Shows off high clarity beautifully
• Great for minimalist or vintage settings
Cons:
• Inclusions and color are more visible
• Less sparkle than brilliant cuts
Best for: Those who value understated sophistication and clean lines.
Asscher Cut
Similar to the emerald cut, but square with step facets, the Asscher rose to fame during the Art Deco era.
Pros:
• Unique, architectural look
• Distinctive and less common than other cuts
Cons:
• Shows inclusions easily
• Less sparkle than round or oval
Best for: Lovers of bold, vintage-inspired design.
Marquise Cut
With its long, pointed ends, the marquise has a regal history—it was originally commissioned by King Louis XV of France.
Pros:
• Maximizes size appearance per carat
• Creates a dramatic, elongating look
Cons:
• Prone to chipping at pointed ends
• Bow-tie effect is common
Best for: Those who love dramatic, attention-grabbing shapes.
Pear Cut
The pear (or teardrop) combines the round and marquise cuts for a unique, graceful silhouette.
Pros:
• Elongates the finger
• Brilliant sparkle with a distinctive look
Cons:
• Symmetry is key—badly cut pears look uneven
• Bow-tie effect possible
Best for: Romantic personalities who want something distinctive yet versatile.
Radiant Cut
The radiant combines the silhouette of an emerald or cushion with the brilliance of a round.
Pros:
• Lots of sparkle
• Strong presence in both rectangular and square versions
Cons:
• Deep cut makes stones look smaller than their carat weight
Best for: Someone who wants brilliance with a more rectangular shape.
Heart Shape
The ultimate symbol of romance, the heart cut is rare and highly distinctive.
Pros:
• Instantly recognizable
• Sentimental and symbolic
Cons:
• Requires precise cutting to look balanced
• Less brilliance than rounds or ovals
Best for: Romantics who want their love story written into the stone itself.
Final Thoughts
Each diamond shape has its own story, strengths, and quirks. Whether you’re drawn to the timeless sparkle of the round brilliant, the sleek sophistication of an emerald cut, or the romantic curves of a pear, the right shape is ultimately about more than brilliance—it’s about expression.
Because at the end of the day, the perfect diamond is the one that feels most like you.
Written by Mia Laurent
Content Editor, Altura Diamond Blog